Thursday, October 16, 2008

Hana Ho

Ok, so I have been staying in the botanic gardens in Hana, Maui for the last 11 days. We are camping outside of the directors office up on the hill off the highway and the gardens is down the bottom on the flood plain.

Hana is on the East Coast of Maui, to drive here from the airport took 3 hours and the road winds up and down along the eroded volcanic valleys and sharp corners. Apart from the fact that the other interns couldn't camp if their lives depended on it (this is the least camping I have ever engaged in. There is a lunch area with a big roller door that houses the kitchen and two tables and then the office which has internet, phones, bathroom, shower, etc. On the plus side the internet doesn't really work so at least they have been playing cards instead of on the internet).

Anyway, we got to the gardens and set up, me and tory are around the back away from everyone and my tent is a leaky bivey bag but is nice and homely. We are cooking communlly too which is nice cause back on kauai everyone eats quick processed food and not together.

We are staying on land that used to belong to Jim Nabors. He is a wierd American celebrity who was in one of the first TV shows ever, the andy griffiths show (I hadn't heard of it and the interns looked at me like I was mad). He bought this old sugar ranch land after the sugar industry was folding in the 70s. Before that it had been ranch land and before that tropical rainforest with a polynesian society at the bottom of the hill. He has a house on the land that the office is on but isn't here. When he bought this as a getaway and hobby farm he planted heaps of mac nut trees. There were 13,000 macadamia trees on the land but a few thousand were destroyed by a cyclone in 2002. The day we flew in we went shopping to stock up on food and then arrived around 3pm. I walked the property and collected mac nuts as I walked.

The gardens is on land that was aquired by a polynesian family durring an event known as the great mehele which occured in 1831 (i think) when hawaii was united as a european style monarchy under one chief/king. Before this there had been islands united under one ruling chief or ali'i who was part of the rulling class with powerful mana and the people pampered their chief and commoners were forbidden from touching the chief or sitting when the chief walked by. Anyway, after contact with Cook in 1778 the islands were then united under one ruler King Kamehameha around 1812. One of the ways he became king was by capturing a european sailboat called the Fair American along with 2 seamen and then had a high tech weponary advantage over all other ali'i.

The great mehele was when the land stopped belonging to everyone and being the commons on which the people lived and mimiced the european system of land ownership. Like in similar land aquisitions in North America, families that had adequate knowledge of english and money could aquire large plots of land at the expense of the community. Anyway, this Family, the Kahunu family, got the land by getting in the sack with the sugar barrons from England that wanted the land to make cash and promised this too the family. In the 60's as the islands agriculture industries were folding the land was deeded to the garden by some of the family decendeant as it had become overgrown and on it was a large Heiau from the 15th century which is an ancient polynesian temple and living space. Over 40, 000 people used to live there before the english brought disease. Although it must be remembered that the hawaian counted in blocks of 4. 4, 40, 400, 4000, 40, 000 and 40,000 was often used for really large numbers. Anyway this heiau is a national monument and really big and really old and really sacred.

" It also contains the Piʻilanihale Heiau, a National Historic Landmark believed to be the largest ancient temple in Polynesia. Dating from the 16th century, it is constructed from lava blocks and is 341 feet (104 m) by 415 feet (126 m) in extent, with a 50-foot (15 m) high front wall." - wikipedia

The gardens are wonderful, there is a team of 6 gardens and 1 nursery worker and the director. The gardens has a huge ulu or breadfruit orchard with over 200 cultivars from all over the world. And then a canoe garden with polynesian introduced plants, the heiau and a beautiful wild volcanic coastline. Hana is a small rural community that is predominantly Hawaian. The town used to be a bit of a booming hub back in the 40's when sugar was king but the collapse of sugar and a cyclone reducd the community size drastically.

The gardeners are all hawaiin guys bar one and it has been amazing talking to them and learning form them and experiancing hawaii hawaii.

Last week we weeded numerous garden beds, weeded the heiau and removed invasive trees from the edges, played hawaiin sport games with hawaiian children, made and threw spears, picked breadfruit, made compost and compost tea and shot the breeze. I went fishing with two of the gardeners eric and earl and vanray and some other local boys and had a blast out there on the rocks. The moon has been filling since we got here and is full tonights.

This past weekend we went swiming in the caves in the area and also at the beach and the director made us brunch with is wife and two kids in toe. Best coffee I've been able to get my hands on in a while. Eric and his mates came over for a Barbeque which was ace. We smoked the meat and stuff with mac nut shells. However, the other interns didn't really understand how a barbeque worked and didn't realise it would just be the guys bringing big slabs of meat and beer. We all had a good time though, Eric taught me to play some ukelele which I really liked. I also walked the coast which is like 4 miles and saw the most amazing sea I have caught in a while, big churning waves pounding on the rocks. Some nights we can hear it from up on this mountian. There are river mouths that were called the drum becuase the sea could be heard so loud up the river valley.

This week has been tops too. Starting Saturday was the aloha festival in town which is a celebration of hawaian culture. We saw a town street parade on Saturday with an elvis car and horses and the fire brigade and school groups making hula floats. There was also a mock procession of the old hawaian courts with the king and his wife and the ladies in waiting and the guards and the herelds and the protector of the mana and the prince and the conch horn blowers. Sunday was a fishing contest and monday we played volley ball in the park with community members. Tuesday was the the teen dance so we went fishing with eric down on the old cane wharf.

Today we weeded an taro patch up in the hills on the other side of town. It is a community farm tacked on the the national park where taro or kalo is cultivated in the tradional way. We wallowed around in the muddy paddies and ripped up the plants we were harvesting and drowned the weeds. The cultivation is amaing. We ripped out the whole plant, cleaned it in the stream and then cut off the korm and the leafs and the stem that is left can be replanted in the field. We then hiked up to a 400 ft waterfall through a bamboo forest. Was fucking increadible. I harvested a big bag of macnuts in the evening and then went to the town talent night. Tomorrow is the bread fruit cook off and hawaiana night and friday we are having a luau in our honour down in the gardens. This two weeks have been amazing.

Have had no real outside news but I saw a headline at the genral store about hte economy being totally fucked, no suprises there. Realy glad I've just been trained in Machette use and spear making and throwing for when we need to catch our own food and build our own shit.

Which segways nicely into the other thing I've been filling my time with here, my intern project. I've been designing a commnity farm for the hana community so I've been checking out the land that the garden has recently aquired and belonged to the old TV star I was on about in the beginging. I'm setting up a plan for reclaiming the clam and building a permaculture community farm to make subsistance food and use time controlled grazing to clear the land of invasive speices and produce beef and pork and chickens for participants. Has been really good getting a understanding of both the land aspects and also the beauracricy required for getting grants, networking etc. Going well thus far, will give a bigger update on that another time.

Hope you are all well, I love you all. After this we have 2 weeks back on the south shore of kauai, two on the north and a final two on the south. Still don't think they will be able to top Hana. I'm gonna do some more coastal restoration projects and a few bike rides. Then I'm going fly to the Big Island at the end of November and either wwoof or bike tour, I haven't decided yet. Then I have my course at the begining of January. As the plan stands now I'm going to head to belau in Febuary and then take it form there.

Stay well, till next time.
Peace
Harris

Friday, October 03, 2008

First Month

So the scene is set, I let you know about the other interns, not the people I would choose to be marooned with on a desert island but passable none the less. The nepotism in the selection was huge, there are only two ecologist in the 9 of us. The others don't really care about plants and are just here to be in Hawaii. Van Ray is amazing, he teaches me new things everyday about food, chickens, fun and uses of plants.

So the first week was just a shemozzle really. Living in close quarters with everything disorganised. We had preliminary introductory lectures and spent our free time working out what research project we would do. Although I was fairly set on doing a farm design project for the Hawaiian community in Hana on Maui I did look around at the other projects to see if they fit my bill as they were all so cool. I passed up seed collection and banking techniques and also GIS training and Breadfruit ethnobotany but I think that doing this farm project is really where I want to take my education and also its the first real project that is really just motivated by me and myself so I just have to make sure my finger is pulled out and i get some work done inbetween hiking and swimming.

Everyone else in the house eats crap food. That statement is not a blanket truth, vanray is a master asian chef. I had the best kimchi soup I have ever eatten last night and his meals never fail to impress me. Most of the food people eat in this country is processed, from a box, instant and totally joyless. Also, it mostly has high fructose corn syrup. Now the filp side to this is that there is a huge niche organic food market but lots of the organic food is still processed and its all hyper expensive and so provides no solution to global agriculture issues. Anyway, I finally found a bulk food store that sells to caters and resturants and shit and got loads of oats, nuts, dried fruit etc and also have now rooted out the asian grocery stores to make fine chinese and fillapino food.

Went canoeing up a river to a waterfall on my first weekend. Was really nice, with an old guys from Alaska. I also went to a turtle dig on the Thursday. We and the volunteers dug up a hatched turtle nest to look for ones that had not escaped properly. We found one and 123 hatched eggs.

The second week we did some lectures on native hawaiian plants and canoe plants and also learned 10 tropical plant families and how to describe them. I still haven't learned them as well as I should have.

The structure of the program is that we have lectures on Monday and Wednesday from 9 till 12 except we have to arrive at 8am for some reason beyond explanation except for beauracracy. We then get lunch and the arvo to work on our projects. Tuesday and Thursday we do work. Often weeding and planting and work in the nursery. Then Friday we have rotation where we alternate between different departments in the garden: Science, Conservation, Education, Garden work and Breadfruit Institute.

The first week we weeded and planted out a cliffside and the second week we worked with the nursery, learning seed propagation, cuttings, airlayering etc.

The third week we worked with conservation learning seedbanking and such and this week jsut passed we worked at a cave reserve. Its been great doing heaps of manual labour and working outside. We weeded, planted, landscaped and layed our irrigation. I love landscaping. I think if it is combined with permaculture principles it might be a great way to get cities to fund urban sustainability projects. But I'm an optimist.

Low points have included backing one of the cars into a bolard which is costing me $400 which sucks. It was one of those hot careless afternoons when you think it couldn't suck anymore and then it does. Was good though, following it and the subsequent fallout I went bike camping for 2 nights away from all the other interns and the house and camped alone on a beach. I woke on the sand every few hours and the sky had shifted and I watched a huge sunrise over the sea. Helped me get my mana back in line. Also, got really sick of Amerians for a week there. Especially as free market capitalism was collapsing and they all looked at me like a lunitic when I talked about moving to a non-growth economy.

Other than that the only thing to report is there is lots of reggae on the island, which is good. Van Ray taught me some new skanking moves.

I can't think of anything else to report really. I've been studing permaculture and playing harmonica and trying to get ontop of my communication with everyone and on top of my classes and shit. I just payed for my ethnobotany class so thats locked in in the first weeks of January. Hope you are all well. I'm off to Maui where the farm I am designing is gonna be. We stay for 2 weeks with the Hana community and get to camp out every night. So I'll fill you all in when I return.

Love to all